A refrigerator that stops cooling is one of the most common emergency calls we receive at All Year Appliance & HVAC Services. In Woodbridge, Dumfries, Montclair, and Lake Ridge homes we see every brand—Bosch, Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire, and Sub-Zero—present the same symptoms for a handful of repeatable reasons.
Follow this exact order our technicians use. Many problems are solved in minutes.
Step 1 – Check the Simple Things First
- Temperature settings: Fresh-food section should be 35–38 °F, freezer 0–5 °F.
- Door seals: Close a dollar bill in the door—if it pulls out easily, the gasket needs cleaning or replacement.
- Level: Rock the fridge gently side-to-side. If it rocks, level the front feet so the doors close fully on their own.
Step 2 – Listen and Feel for Normal Operation
- Stand quietly beside the fridge. You should hear the compressor (low hum) at the bottom rear running most of the time when cooling is needed.
- Feel the divider wall between freezer and fresh-food section—it should be slightly warm. If ice-cold or room temperature, the evaporator fan or defrost system has likely failed.
Step 3 – Clean the Condenser Coils (Most Common Fix)
Northern Virginia dust, pet hair, and kitchen grease coat the coils underneath or behind the refrigerator within 12–18 months.
- Pull the fridge out (unplug first).
- Remove the bottom or back panel.
- Use a coil brush and vacuum (never compressed air alone—it drives dust deeper).
- Coils should be completely black and shiny again when finished. More than 40 % of “not cooling” calls we answer in Prince William County are solved just by this step.
Step 4 – Check Airflow Inside
- Freezer: Remove drawers and feel for strong, cold air blowing from the rear or top vents. No airflow = failed evaporator fan motor.
- Fresh-food section: Air should enter from a vent near the top or bottom. Blocked vent = food spoils even when freezer is cold.
Step 5 – Look for Frost Buildup or Ice Blockages
Heavy frost on the back wall of the freezer (more than ¼ inch) means the automatic defrost system (heater, timer, or thermostat) has failed. The ice blocks airflow to the fresh-food section.
Step 6 – Test the Start Relay / Capacitor (Click-Buzz-Click Sound)
If the compressor makes a click every 2–4 minutes, then a short buzz and click-off, the start relay or capacitor is bad. This is extremely common on 8–15-year-old units.
Step 7 – Sealed-System Issues (Professional Diagnosis Required)
- Hiss or gurgle sounds after the compressor shuts off = normal.
- No sounds at all for hours + warm interior = possible compressor or refrigerant leak. These require gauges, leak detection, and EPA certification to diagnose accurately.
Immediate Food Safety Actions
- If the fresh-food section is above 40 °F for more than 2 hours, move perishables to a cooler with ice.
- Freezer contents stay safe up to 48 hours if the door remains closed.
When to Call a Professional Right Away
- Burning plastic smell
- Oily residue under the fridge
- Compressor is hot to the touch but silent
- Water leaking underneath and not from the drain pan
- Error codes on digital display
We stock the most common evaporator fan motors, defrost heaters, start relays, and control boards on every van for same-day repair across Woodbridge, Dumfries, Lake Ridge, Montclair, and all Northern Virginia.
Contact All Year Appliance & HVAC Services at 703-955-4135 anytime—24 hours a day, 7 days a week—for fast, accurate refrigerator diagnosis and repair.
All Year Appliance & HVAC Services Keeping Northern Virginia families’ food cold since day one.